Traditional Mold Making Methods & Slush Casting :

A working knowledge of traditional mold making can be helpful. Objects require more care than do most living things. especially humans which are able to move themselves out of the mold.

Also keep in mind that most nonliving objects are not as moist and slippery as we are. Additional precautions must usually be taken to prevent sticking and tearing when demolding.

Simple Relief Molds:

These are the simplest types. Used for LifeCast™ that are not "in-the-round'. For complex surfaces with deep areas, place them in the matrix and pour the ArtForm™ onto them. For simple surfaces, dip the object into a matrix full of liquid ArtForm™. Before setting, work the ArtForm™ into the details.

USES: Hand / Foot Prints, Partial Portrait LifeMask™, Ears, Noses, Fruit. Designs where convenience is more important than strict materials conservation.

Shelled Relief Molds:

These are made with by spreading a layer (1/4" to 1/2 ") of a thick ratio ArtForm™ onto the item to capture the detail. Then spread a thick consistency shell (1/4" to 1") of ArtCast™ to form the matrix. Both the ArtForm™ and the ArtCast™ can be reinforced with hemp fibers or burlap to add strength on large shells. This can also be used with two and three part molds (below) to conserve materials and provide a re-usable, custom matrix.

USES: Torso areas, LifeMask™ and whenever material conservation is important.

Split Molds:

These are made in the same ways as relief molds (above) and are usually deeper. When the ArtForm™ has set, a small split is made along one side. The object can then be released and removed easily. The split must be carefully realigned before casting. If the split also goes through the matrix it must be held together with rubber bands or tape before pouring your casting medium. Some touch-up is always required on the finished piece.

Note: The razor blade is symbolic. In Lifecasting you would use a dull butter or plastic knife to avoid hurting your model. The ArtForm™ cuts very easily.

USES: Feet, arms, legs and other long shapes which are too deep for the suction to be released otherwise.

Sandwich Molds:

These are easy since solid ArtForm™ does not stick to additional amounts of liquid ArtForm™. Mold halves can then be parted. Mix 1/2 the amount of ArtFORM™ you will need and insert the item to the depth of your intended seam, hold until set. Cut small alignment notches in the top, surface edge of this half-mold and attach a funnel shaped bit of clay or wax to the object for a pour spout. Mix the remaining ArtFORM™ and pour on top (around the spout). When set, break the vacuum, gently remove object and wax/clay spout, re-assemble mold and make your cast(s).

These can also be made in shelled versions to minimize material use/weight.

USES: Any 3 dimensional inanimate objects which can be bi-symmetrically divided, heads, torsos, arms, legs, etc.

Contour Molds:

Multiple part molds are made for complex objects where the seam must follow curved elements to make mold halves that may be pulled straight off. Refer to the many books on this advanced skill for more detailed instructions.

USES: Any 3 dimensional object which cannot be bi-symetrically divided. Usually made as shelled versions.

Layered or "French" Molds:

When materials conservation is very important for weight or cost reasons this set up is used. The object is loosely covered with about a 1" layer of clay. This layer is then "shimmed" to make parting seams and covered with an ArtCast™ shell. The shell is removed and the layer of clay is taken off of the original. The original is re-centered into the shell. There will be a gap between the shell and the object where the clay layer was. That gap is filled with ArtForm™ to make the mold.

USES: Usually for very large molds or when using very expensive mediums such as silicon or exotic rubbers and plastics.

Hollow 'Slush' Castings:

This casting technique is employed with cement (to lessen the weight), waxes (to be cast in metal) and chocolate (for liquid centers) . With cement, the liquid is poured into the mold and spread up the sides as it hardens. Wax and chocolate will cool from the outside in. When this 'skin' is the width you want, pour out the liquid center.

USES: Any time the characteristic of 'hollowness' is important to the work.

Other Art Mediums: ArtForm™, Earthium(f/x)™, PolyArt™ and ArtCast™ can be used with most other media for special effects. Refer to the LifeCast™ Library for additional information.

Ceramics: Pouring clay slip requires an absorption mold to suck out the water, leaving a deposit of clay on the walls of the mold. The ArtForm™/ArtCast™ compatibility is excellent for this. For example; make a LifeMask™ mold (above) and fill it with more ArtForm™, it will not stick, leaving a slippery duplicate. Covered with ArtCAST™ it will create a cement mold suitable for filling with porcelain or other clay slip which may then be fired.

Many Plastic Resins, urethane for example are incompatible with water. To cast a plastic resin into ArtForm™ you must either pour the plastic at the very last moment before gelation, add extra catalyst or add our molecular sieve WaterTrap™ into the liquid resin before mixing. Other media typically referred to as plastics, silicone for example are not so hostile to water and can be used more directly.

Hot Melt Waxes for candles, extremely detailed work or as an intermediate step in bronze or other metal sculpture.