Chapter 6: Erotic Lifecasting:
Design & Techniques Guidelines

Eros is the ancient Greek god of love, identified with the Roman Cupid. This classical deity was traditionally depicted as a young child with wings. Much later, as part of their marketing strategy into foreign cultures this pagen symbol was transformed into the angelic, celibate, Christian cherub.

Indians, by which is meant the ancient Aryan conquerors of that subcontinent made no attempt to segregate lust from their spiritual beliefs. Indeed they devoted enormous effort to its sensual depiction in elaborate temple sculpture and, of course in the famous Kama Sutra.

The Greeks adorned even common pottery with wild scenes of naked women and fully aroused men.

This brief section pays tribute to many millennia of erotic, artistic endeavor. No attempt is made to provide step-by-step instruction. That is done thoroughly elsewhere in the LifeCast™ Library.

Hindu (old Persian for "what Indians do") religion worships the subtle, intricacies of all nature - including Nature's almost overwhelming interest in sex.

The artistic rendition of sexual subjects is the oldest in history. Voluptuous, prehistoric totems of pregnant woman are found throughout the world.

These are simply approaches we have found useful.Any suggestions and/or contributions of sample work by other lifecasters will be appreciated by all and posted on the site, with credit to the artist or anonymously.

Prerequisites:

Before you even think about trying these advanced sculpture techniques you must be intimately familiar with the art of lifecasting. That means you must have actually done some, not merely read about the theory.

There's more to it than just the algorithms and materials. Human psychology is a slippery beast and can cause far more trouble than might be obvious at first.

Prerequisites:

This is true even for parts of the anatomy without centuries of artificial social inhibitions, let alone the ones discussed here.However, there are few things in fine art more fun to practice. And of course, practice makes perfect! Experience is the only teacher that matters in art. Refer to the other sections of this site for any terms or proceedure details you don't yet understand.

Additional Notes & Considerations:

For the sake of clarity, body hair has been omitted from these illustrations. This does not imply shaving as a necessity to erotic lifecasting. However, large masses of long, thick hair can definitely make the process more difficult. It becomes tangled in the mold, making it more complicated to get out as well as tearing up the mold in the process.

Anything worth doing is worth doing right. We do suggest trimming the area to be LifeCast™, especially if your model is particularly hairy. Also the hair must be lubricated to lay flat to the skin, presenting a single surface to the mold.

On fair or lightly haired people this can occasionally be done with just water. The denser and thicker the hair is the stronger the lubricant needs to be. These suggestions are in order of necessity;
• conditioner
• mineral/vegetable oil
• heavy bodied lotions and creams
• styling gels and petroleum jelly.

One advantage of using a water proof, 'industrial strength' lubricant like petroleum jelly is that the hair can then be shaped according to your desires.

If trimming the hair is absolutely not possible then be sure to flatten it down thoroughly with lubricant. Uncontrolled hair, particularly pubic hair, will not cast out very well anyway. It will become matted down or, by tearing up the mold as you release, will become unattractive globs of casting medium.Lubricated, flattened and shaped the hair can be an integral part of the sculpture, every strand perfectly duplicated. Earthium™(f/x) is by far the best medium to use for erotic projects. It can be used warm, made slow enough to mix in batches for large projects and fast enough for most men's, sometimes reluctant erections.Accordingly we have used Earthium™ in these guidelines. For specific instructions see that product's web page. Erotic LifeCasting™ is a team sport. Although many of your ideas can be done solo, it is much more fun and creates better results if you have help. For our more bashful would-be sculptors who find nudity itself embarrassing, may we suggest that you take some college level art classes (or better yet - pose for some) where such things are treated with calm professionalism.Note: The bare skin areas need not be coated with anything other than water or moisturizer.

Breasts:

Boob Dipping sounds like some weird carnival game but its really the easiest way I know to LifeCast™ a woman's breasts. The set up at the right can of course be done with singles, doubles, small or large. The key to success in any custom project is to take your time. Make sure everything fits without touching the container, that your model is comfortable, that no hair or jewelry is going to dangle into the mold, that a little mess is not a problem, that you have everything you need close at hand. It is always best to do a few 'dry' runs using just water. Also, if your container is transparent this will show up any contact problems.

Breasts:

Other than that I think the actual process is pretty obvious. Mix the medium, dunk the breasts in, rub them thoroughly all over to eliminate air bubbles. When set, releasing them is easy. Also, cold water will usually stiffen the nipples but slows the set time. Even the most titillating (pun intended) activity can become a bore if it takes too long. Adjust the part B to compensate for low temperature water.

Torso Shells:

can be used for men and women but, the weight of the materials can severly distort the physique, particularly of those with large breasts. Changing the angle of the model's pose can sometimes fix the problems. The model can lay flat, stand upright or lean forward. Itdepends on the desired effect, artist's skill and the model's physique. Female breasts, for example are each unique and the individual must be studied to determine the best approach. The back half can be done at the same time for an in-the-round torso. See Sandwich molds in Alternative & Advanced Techniques for the set up.

Torso Shells:

Large Surface Areas like a human torso are done by spreading a thick, medium to slow setting ratio of Earthium™ over the body. While the mold is still tacky, cotton is dabbed all over the outside surface, embedding fibers. Next, a layer of plaster or plaster bandages is laid over the mold, binding the layers together. When this has hardened the entire assembly is removed. The LifeCast™ is made by spreading (slush casting) inside the mold to form even wall thicknesses.

Torso Tanks:

These are my favorite for large projects. They use alot of material but the results are so slick if done properly that its worth it. And the matrix can be used again and again. Steel, fiberglass, plastic or paperboard drums are easily found and inexpensive (look under "drums" or "barrels" in the yellow pages).

Precaution: If you buy used drums make sure you know what the contents were and clean them out thoroughly before use. There's alot of very toxic stuff out there - most shipped in drums. Buoyancy is another attribute of viscosity (LifeCast™ Basics). The thicker the liquid, the more a human body will tend to float in it. For women with large breasts, this can be used to offset the effects of gravity and create a more flattering LifeCast™. Also, if you mix in batches, the Earthium™ can be allowed to partially set up in lower areas to give support to subsequent pours in higher ones.

Torso Tanks:

The torso tank moves the burden of supporting the mediums from your model's body to the matrix, where it belongs. Make sure your set up works by testing it with just water first! Water is very heavy. If your matrix collapses in mid-project someone could get hurt (not to mention the waste of materials and effort). I have attached spigots to the bottom of barrels to allow easy draining of the test and measurement water. The leg holes must closely fit the contour of the leg or the plastic bags and rubber bands will not be able to restrain the liquid. You can also pad the edges with foam rubber for a closer fit and model comfort. Use plenty of hook & loop or other materials, firmly attached to prevent "Slip & Slid". It will also ensure the mold stays connected to the matrix when its opened to get the model out. There's nothing worse than for everything to work perfectly only to have the mold fall apart at the release. The photo shows a nice finished example of a Torso Tank LifeCast™.

Displacement:

One final note about displacement. Anything you can do to minimize material is time well spent. You will only need about 1 inch (even less in some areas) of mold material around the model's body if its firmly anchored to the matrix While the model is in the empty matrix, look for areas around the waist, the small of the back, etc. where there is more than 2 to 3 inches of empty space.

Displacement:

Shape and firmly attach foam rubber or Styrofoam to the matrix in those areas. Make sure these space fillers don't overlap the seams of the split path or the hinge or you will not be able to open it up like a clamshell to get the model out and pour or spread the final lifecast sculpture material.Done carefully these will require as little as 15 to 20 pounds of Earthium(f/x)™ depending on your set up.

Of course these can be done simply by sitting in a batch of Earthium(f/x)™ similar to the "Boob Dipping" process described previously.

They are also well suited for a small version of the "Torso Tank".

But here is an approach which allows much more complicated sculpture designs using less material.

The front hip and thigh portions are slush cast and hardened before pouring the hands solid.

These types of complex "in-the-round" shell set ups should only be used when several shapes intersect along different 3 dimensional axes. For example, when you only want the back half of the lower torso.

Follow proceedures described earlier for shell molds or "Torso Shells" and the "Slush Casting" method.
• The photographs below give you a good sampling of what is possible with this type of lifecast design.

Example of "in-the-round" shelled torso lifecast sculptures used as a table base.

Male Genitals:

Aroused male genitals seem to be the sole criteria for the infamous 'X' rating. They have always been the topic of frequent customer requests for instruction, from both genders. There are several approaches. The main obstacle has nothing to do with technique - its just a cylinder with some spheres attached. These are the simplest sculptural shapes possible. Keeping it erect while doing something like this by yourself can be psychologically daunting. This is where some intimate help from a friend is usually required (and appreciated). Since Earthium(f/x)™ can be worked warm and sets fast, the set up illustrated is best for capturing the entire form. It not only allows quick insertion into the matrix but access for arousal while in the matrix and for pouring the mold.

Male Genitals:

Sit or otherwise tilt it upward as it fills. Hold the matrix firmly against the skin surrounding the scrotum between the legs to prevent leaks. Precision Ratio # 2 in the Earthium(f/x)™ instructions is specifically for this type of use and sets up in 30 to 45 seconds. To pour the cast in something that feels realistic and is hygienically safe to play with, health-care grade silicone such as our PolyArt™ is best. See Chapter 4 in Advanced Techniques for additional information.

Sequential Lifecasts:Fellatio LifeMask™ Note:

Once you have a copy of the erect penis it can be used as a breathing tube for doing another LifeCast™ of a face in oral contact. Simply embed a straw or other tube in the center of the penis mold before casting the erection (or drill a hole but that's not always practical).

Then mount that through the bottom of a bowl (see the FastMask™ set up in Chapter 5 of Alt.& Adv. Tech.) for the facial model to put the lips around.

Cast-A-Cock™:

This is an adult kit we are putting together which is a variation on our BODY PARTS: Advanced LifeCast™ Kit.

In addition to our ample amounts of Earthium(f/x)™ it will contain PolyArt™ silicone for a realistic anatomical final LifeCast™.

Go To Basic Projects & Finishing:
Lifecasts which anyone can make - guaranteed!*

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